Stebbins: Take Two

Holy cow, the end of September is already here, which means we have been in school for a month now! The time seems to have gone by quickly, but so much has happened during that time, it already feels like school has been going forever. During the month of September, I only had one full week of school, and that was the first week. The second week of school was only 4 days because of Labor Day, the third week of school I spent in Wasilla, being trained to become a trainer of the Strategic Instruction Model (SIM) Learning Strategies. The fourth week of school was another 4 day week because we had teacher inservice on Friday and Saturday, and this week, school was cancelled on Monday because we had a power outage in the village and were without water in the school. To say it has been a crazy five weeks for me is an incredible understatement!

Crazy as it has been since returning to AK, I would say that the year is off to a good start. We spent the week before school started in the village of Savoonga, which is located on St. Lawrence Island, and is only about 70 miles from the Russia mainland. Seriously. It was an intense week of inservice, gearing us up for our SIG (School Improvement Grant) which we, along with 3 other schools in the district, received this year. While there, I scored some pretty fantastic ivory treasures (Savoonga is renowned for their carvers). My walrus ivory whale is about 5 inches from nose to tail, and 1 and 1/2 to 2 inches thick in places. It's not super-ornately carved, compared to other pieces I saw while there, but I got an AMAZING deal on it. I also procured an ivory and baleen jewelry box while in Savoonga.

As you can see on the map of western Alaska, St. Lawrence Island, and the villages of Savoonga and Gambell, are almost too close for comfort to Mother Russia. Directly east of the island you will find St. Michael, which is the village 7 miles east of Stebbins. Apparently we weren't cool enough to make it on this map. The island you see offshore from us is Stewart Island, which I can see from my living room window. You'll see it too, in some of the pictures I'll post below.

To be quite frank, I have been loving the heck out of my job this year. Sure, there have been a few speed bumps here and there, but overall, things in Ms. Demme's room are running pretty smoothly. I have seven 7th graders all day, all subjects. I LOVE having a self-contained class. Am I an awesome math teacher? I will be the first to admit that I am not. Most days, though, my kids are excited to learn, and that makes up for my content area shortcomings. I am teaching the same reading program as last year, only this year, I actually know how to do it. I actually know how to TEACH this year, which is huge. Last year was a hot mess. I wish I could erase it from my record. I'm glad of it, only in that I learned SO much from my screw-ups. Otherwise, I would rather just forget that my first year of teaching ever happened ;)

7th grade is an incredibly fun age group to teach. They are always on the verge of a meltdown because they are wired on hormones and their emotions have no grey area. One minute they love you, the next they are shooting you the stink eye from under their hoodies. They are loud and volatile and excitable and passionate and IF you can get their attention, and get them on your side, they are valuable allies to have in the classroom. They definitely keep me on my toes, but they make me laugh every day, and more than once, we have struck that magic balance in class where learning is fun for me AND them. That's what it's all about, right?

School aside, life in the vill goes on as usual. We are losing more light every day, and it's only a matter of time before snow will start flying. Until then, I am basking in the beauty that is the late summer/early fall in the tundra land.

 Blue skies and green tundra on a honda trip to St. Michael.

A painfully beautiful September sunset right outside our living room window. There's Stewart Island in the background!

 Climbing to the top of Steven's Hill with a co-worker and her doggie. Once again, Stewart Island is in the background. Ironically, the dog is also named Stewart :)

 A stunning view from the top of Steven's Hill...

 Ben and I took an evening stroll to the south side of Punik, which is the mound of land that marks the south end of town. It's pronounced like 'bunnock', but last year a student told me the correct spelling was that which I used above.

 The tundra grass has turned brown, but there are still spots of color nestled in here and there.

 These weird little pools are back a ways from the water...maybe a high tide that got stuck in the rocks? Love the droopy tundra grass around this one.

 It's seal hunting season!

There is plenty of viscera and severed body parts to be found on the beach this time of year.

In other news, I was given a Yup'ik name this year by my students. They call me Ms. Caiglluk, meaning 'medicine', because I "make them better." Unbelievably, it is pronounced like 'jice-luck'. The Yup'ik language continues to astonish my English speaking sensibilities in it's fearless bucking of usual (i.e. English) pronunciation rules. Either way, I was truly touched by the name my students bestowed upon me, mostly because of it's meaning, but also because being given a Yup'ik name somewhat signifies having reached a certain level of acceptance in the community (even if it is just my classroom community for now).

Ben is starting to hassle me because I have been at this for so long, and my battery life is running short, so I suppose I ought to say farewell for now. I know last spring I promised a post detailing what shopping for groceries, etc. is like out here in the bush, and I have not forgotten that promise! I will deliver on that post when I can, as it is an interesting subject about which I am asked frequently.

Until then, all the best to all of you in my readership! Quyana (thank you!) for stopping by :)

XOXOXO

jane

Summer makes everything better!

I have been a terribly neglectful correspondent these past few months, not due to lack of material, but lack of motivation and time. I have had a whirlwind summer full of adventures, and as I write this entry, I am, in fact, crammed into coach, winging my way south to Los Angeles for a long awaited reunion with my sister. Usually I am too paralyzed by flying to do anything but rigidly stare out the window and clutch my teddy bear, but so far so good ( knock on wood). I head back to the village in just a matter of weeks (August 10 is the official departure date), but I am doing my best to make the most of my remaining days of freedom.

"Make the most of it" seems like an ample tagline for how I have approached this summer. I have traveled more in the past 2 months than I usually travel in an entire year (not counting the necessary flights for work). For someone who really doesn't enjoy flying, I have found myself in my current situation (on a plane) more often than I would particularly prefer. It's 2011 -- where is the teleport device, scientists?! So you can equip an airplane with Internet -- big whoop. That doesn't get me to my destination any faster or lessen the hassle and emotional distress of traveling by air. We can do better, people. And until I obtain my own personal Montgomery Scott to beam me hither and yon, I will continue to feel chagrined every time I board an airplane.

But, I digress. I have too many summer adventures to recap to waste any more time expounding on my disdain for air travel. Here, in short, is how I have made the most of my summer:

Trip # 1: Stebbins to Vancouver, WA (via Portland, OR)

Ben and Roman and I, along with the Johnsons (Matt n' Ashley) left Stebbins on the morning of May 21. We VERY NEARLY missed our flight, which would have been a disaster of epic proportions. We were finally able to convince the pilot (who was at the end of the runway getting ready to take off when we got to the airport) that we were supposed to be on his plane, so, crisis averted. However, there wasn't enough room in the 10-ish seater King Air (two props! wow!!) for all of us, all our bags, AND Roman in his kennel, so when the pilot asked if my dog was well behaved, we all answered with a resounding "YES". Thus, Roman was afforded his very own aisle seat (that is, he slept in the aisle itself for the duration of the 10 minute flight from Stebbins to Unalakleet).

V.I.P (Very Important Poodle) Roman enjoys the comforts of his aisle seat.

Once we got out of the village, the rest of the trip was a breeze. We said goodbye to the Johnsons and other colleagues in Anchorage, and after a night spent at the Long House Inn, Ben, Roman, and I rose bright and early on the 22nd for our FIRST CLASS flight into Portland. It was my first time flying first class and I loved it. A lot. Mom and Dad greeted us right outside security at PDX, and soon we were home enjoying much appreciated beers and steak dinner. Ben and I spent about 2 and a half days in Vancouver, hanging with Mom & Dad, getting our bearings, and preparing for 

Trip # 2: Vancouver to Phoenix, AZ (once again, via PDX)

Ben and I had been planning this trip down to AZ to visit his friend Rob (of Scottsdale, formerly of Milwaukee, WI) since roughly September. We once again traveled like ballers in 1st class, and the feeling of warmth hitting my skin as soon as we exited the airport after all of those months in the cold was priceless. I loved meeting some of Ben's friends, but I really appreciated the lounging and relaxation afforded us by Rob's generous hospitality and exquisite backyard pool.

Coming home from a night on the town in Scottsdale...happy to be vacationers :)

 Swimming, drinks, and getting some much needed sleep were what this vacation was about, and it really hit the spot. 5 days in the Arizona sun with boyfriend & friends was the perfect prequel to 

Trip # 3: Vancouver to Stites, ID (more specifically, the Southfork River Ranch)

The day after coming home from AZ and directly after dropping Ben off at the airport, Dad and Roman and I began the long but beautiful drive to the ranch.

Halfway viewpoint on the Grangeville grade. Exquisite.

Enjoying a cold one with Anderson at the Kamiah Hotel.

The view from the fishing hole. And to the left, we have the Demme Homestead!

 I was so excited to be back at my home away from home, it didn't even matter that the sky was grey for most of our stay. Roman was ecstatic to see his ranch family again (poodle and human), and I loved being able to spend some quality father/daughter time with Dad. 

Dad was anxious to get in on the salmon run, so he and Chuck and Anderson spent most of their time down by the river. I joined them for a bit, but was unable to snag my first salmon. We did find some treasures unearthed by the river bank erosion (arrowhead shards, other possible native worked rock items), and Dad managed to catch one (small) salmon to Chuck's two (large). I cherished my time back at the ranch by enjoying lots of naps and good food. As with all of my stays there, it wasn't nearly long enough, but I was happy to return to Vancouver after, where I spent two weeks with mom before 

Trip # 4: Vancouver to Milwaukee, WI (via PDX and Denver)

My first trip to the midwest was a great success! I loved seeing Ben in his familiar surroundings, meeting his friends and family, and experiencing all the wonders of rural Wisconsin (Amish! Dollar beers at the ballpark! Deep fried cheese curds!). We started out in the outskirts of Milwaukee for Ben's friends David & Lisa's wedding. Ben was a groomsman and I was official girlfriend of groomsman/ad-hoc decorating assistant. It was a very fun weekend, the wedding was beautiful, the reception was a hoot, and we had a generally great time.

Posing pre-wedding.

After our wedding weekend, we drove west to Ben's hometown of Dalton. There, I met his mom & dad, grandparents, sister, nephews, aunts, uncles, cousins, friends, and on, and on, and on. It was a great time. I learned about pontoon boats, Friday night fish fry, cherry Doctor, chocolate chip sandwich cookies, deep fried cheese, sand hill cranes, Culver's, shortie beers, and why it's great to be a Milwaukee Brewers and Green Bay Packers fan. I loved the scenery and simplicity of Wisconsin, and I loved seeing how Ben fit in there. I am looking forward to my next visit!

Striking a pose outside of Lambeau Field (home of the Packers...DUH)

About to blitz Ben in the Packers Hall of Fame.

Miller Park, home of the Brewers!

Enjoying another win for the Brew Crew.

Deep fried cheese curds, AKA the ambrosia of Wisconsin.

After my return from the midwest, I had a bit of downtime at home. Mom and I started to plot a trip down to see Anne, but in the end she decided I should be the one to go. That led to 

Trip # 5: Vancouver to Los Angeles (via PDX)

As you know, I was en route to Los Angeles when I began writing this post. It turned out to be an excellent trip! Anne and I couldn't have been happier to reunite with one another, and we managed to work in several exciting adventures during my stay in the city of angels. Best leave it to the pictures to describe!

On the corner of Hollywood & Highland, being tourist-y.

Inside the Kodak Theater.

On Blue Jay Way, just like the Beatles song of the same name / Standing outside of the Beatles' home on Blue Jay Wy.

As you can see, the Doors used to work here. Now it's just a defunct restaurant.

Venice Beach, followed by my first trip to In n' Out Burger.

Horsing around in our empty theater (part of the Grauman's Chinese Theater complex), moment's before viewing Harry Potter 7 pt. 2.

Bonding with the cast of Harry Potter before the film.

So, that pretty much sums up my summer to this point. I have one final trip planned before returning to Stebbins in 13 days - - Ben is coming out on Saturday, and on Monday he, Roman, and I are headed down to the Oregon Coast (Rockaway) for a 2 night getaway. I really feel like I have made the most of my vacation time, my only regret being that I wasn't able to spend more time in Idaho at the ranch. 

I am beginning to get excited for the start of a new school year, and all that comes with it. I have had lots of time to reflect on year one, and I am ready and anxious to go back and tackle year # 2. Waiting for me in Stebbins will be a class of 6 seventh graders, who (hopefully) will be as excited to see me as I am to see them! I have lots of big ideas that I can't wait to try, and I am feeling the confidence that comes with having crossed that "first year" hurdle.

I will continue to milk my vacation time for all it's worth, but next time you hear from me, it will be from my Alaskan outpost!

XOXO

jane

For those of you considering Alaska...

...here are some things you need to know. Now that I am a seasoned veteran (haha...kind of?) of bush living, I am ready to share my knowledge with the world. This blog goes out to any prospective bush teachers who are in the midst of the job hunt and are overwhelmed with questions. These pieces of advice might be specific to my experience only and not necessarily the same everywhere in the bush, so do with them what you will. If you have any further or specific questions, feel free to post in the comment section and I will answer you as best I can!


Alaska Essentials Part 1: Clothing and Outerwear.

This is the section where I save you from buying three different coats and/or getting frostbite while you're out adventuring on the tundra. You don't need to repeat my mistakes! As far as coats go, the one coat you need to have is a long (mid-thigh length) coat or parka with a hood. Make sure it is rated for at least as cold as it gets where you expect to live. Third time was the charm for me - I found this delightful Eddie Bauer parka that is rated for -20, is windproof (very important), waterproof, and down-filled (even the hood!). The mid-thigh length is a must because it keeps the wind from blowing up your back when you are out riding hondas, snowmachining, or just walking around.

The next thing you need in your outerwear arsenal is snow pants or bibs. I bought snow pants, though if I were to do it over again I would definitely go for bibs. They also help to eliminate the whole wind up your back scenario.

As far as boots go, I reccommend both snow boots and your basic rubber boots, so your feet will stay dry during both of the Alaskan seasons (winter and not winter). If you are going to be wandering around in extreme cold for long periods of time, I suppose bunny boots would be a good option, but if you plan to be out and about in the snow only occasionally then you should be just fine with any decent, well-insulated, waterproof snow boot. As far as rubber boots go, they are great if you live in a coastal village like Stebbins because late summer and early fall are filled with events happening around the beach. I love my Hunter wellingtons because not only are they stunningly gorgeous and highly fashionable, but they are also tall enough that wading into the Bering Sea to pull out a salmon net becomes less of a hazard.

 

The next most important piece of outerwear you need, especially if you plan on spending any time outdoors in the winter, is a good base layer.  My dumb butt almost froze last December when I went traipsing across the tundra in naught but my skinny jeans. A base layer is a must!!! My Under Armor base 3 is light yet incredibly warm (kind of spendy, but SO worth it).

Finally, for your outerwear crowning glory, you need a good hat. You should, of course, have other cold weather accessories like gloves or mittens, scarves, wool socks, etc., and those things are pretty easy to find, but nothing beats a good hat. And if you make the move to Alaska, you might as well treat yourself to the best. And trust me people, it doesn't get any better than one of these:

A handmade, spotted seal and beaver hat beats the hell out of anything even the most high-tech outerwear companies can produce. Obviously, this is something you can't exactly buy in advance, and the materials may vary from region to region in the state, but a Native-made fur hat is definitely a must-have, in my humble opinion. These are usually made by craftspeople in the village, and you will just have to ask around if you are interested in one. I am madly in love with mine and still maintain that it is the best piece of outerwear I have ever purchased.

Odds and ends and other clothing dos and don'ts:

- You can't go wrong with Uggs

- Flannel shirts are delightful

- High heels and arctic grates don't mix

- LAYERS

- It's ok to wear leggings under everything

- Keep your sunglasses handy

- If you walk to school, have a pair of slip-on boots you can walk in, and carry your dress shoes in your bag or just leave them in your classroom.

- You CAN still dress like a professional, even in the bush! (as long as you are a little creative)

Stay tuned for my next installment on bush living where I will be discussing the exciting topic of GROCERIES/SHOPPING in the bush! Much love to you all, especially those of you on the job hunt. It all works out in the end, I promise!

XOXOjane

Work, Work, Work

To say that I have been a busy girl this semester is a gross understatement. It seems like everything has just been going non-stop ever since school started up again, and I have hardly had time to think, let alone blog. Our whole school is in a frenzy over the statewide tests that happen in April, and all the preparation that goes along with them. We are in sort of a "do or die" position as far as testing goes this year - we need to improve on our scores as a school in order to be in accordance with NCLB (that's 'No Child Left Behind', for those of you who are blissfully unaware of the world of education bureaucracy). To that end, we have instated a new daily schedule that includes specific "intervention" time for the big three testing subjects: reading, writing, and math. At the beginning of the school year, students were dismissed at 3:15. Now, all students are dismissed at 3:45. We now have 25 minutes of extra math practice each morning, and 25 extra minutes for both reading and writing practice each afternoon. The students are fairly fried by the end of the day, which makes sense, and our last class of the day is 45 minutes of either social studies or science. I teach social studies, and I have been trying to keep it light and not too mentally taxing, while still getting through the standards. It seems like we have been having a lot of laughs in social studies now that it's at the end of the day, and I appreciate that as much as (I hope) the kids do. They have a lot on their shoulders with the new intervention schedule and tests looming over them...as if being a middle schooler isn't stressful enough already!

It's the first of February today and that means only about 4 more weeks until Spring Break. While I doubt early March in Stebbins is anywhere close to being called "spring", "break" is the same no matter where you are. It will be nice to have a few days of rest in preparation for that last hectic push before the SBA tests in early April. We are all downhill after the SBAs though, and school is out May 19th.

So, life in Stebbins goes on. We have had about 6 inches of new snow in the past 24 hours or so, which is very happy news for the cross country skiing team who just started practicing about a week ago. Basketball season is in full swing for high school boys and girls, as well as the Jr. High and elementary co-ed teams. Home games are a big deal, and the whole community comes out in full force to cheer on the Grizzlies and buy goodies from the student store. Basketball is definitely THE sport up here, and it brings in a lot of revenue for our school, which is great.

For those of you who have been watching Flying Wild Alaska on Discovery, you have seen a few quick shots of the Stebbins airport already. Our Friday nights now consist of FWA at 5, then on to the basketball game at 7. For us, that's about as thrilling a start to the weekend as possible! Last night my roommate, who coaches the girls h.s. b-ball team, was pointing out the fact that her life consists of 3 or 4 things: basketball, reading, TV or DVDs, and work. Minus the basketball part, my life isn't much different. It's a simple existence, but we try to make our own fun as much as possible. Our teaching community is pretty tight knit, due to the fact that we not only work together, but we live in close proximity to one another as well. Getting together for dinner, having girls' night, arranging walks on the tundra or trips to St. Michael, tupperware parties and movie nights...these are the things that keep our minds occupied on things other than school, and distract us from the thought of how much beer we're NOT drinking. It truly is a blessing that I actually like the people I work with quite a lot...if that were not the case, I would certainly be in trouble up here!

So, to all my friends and followers in the Lower 48, have a fabulous February! Enjoy those Super Bowl parties this weekend, drink a beer (or many beers) in my honor, and GO PACKERS!!!

XOXOjane

Shout Out!

This is just a heads-up to any and all reality TV fans, or those of you who want a closer look at what the "travel industry" is like up here. Discovery has a new show which just premiered this week called Flying Wild Alaska. It focuses in large part on the family that runs Era Alaska out of Unalakleet. They are the same people and planes I get to see every time I fly up here. I watched the premiere last night and it was so cool and kind of uncanny to be able to say "I've flown in that plane! I know those people!"

Additionally, Discovery filmed parts of our teacher in-service back in October that may be included on the show. I had to sign a release form saying it was ok if they happened to put me on TV, so if you do watch the show, keep your eyes peeled! However highly unlikely it is that you might catch a glimpse of my face on TV, I would highly recommend this show regardless. It gives a great picture of what life is like up here, and our complete dependence on planes to get us places and get us the things we need to survive. It's definitely a slice of life most people in the Lower 48 have no idea even exists.

Check out the show's website and watch some previews,
http://dsc.discovery.com/tv/flying-wild-alaska/

and keep your Friday 9 o'clock time slot open for new episodes!

XOXOjane

It's a Bright New Year!

A little more than a year ago, the notion first popped into my head that my future might be in Alaska. On the 4th of January, 2010, I submitted my application to Alaska Teacher Placement, and from there on out, my life began to change. On January 20th I had my first phone interview with BSSD. In the beginning of February, I talked to my future principal for the first time. Back then, he was just a contact from whom I was seeking more information about teaching in the Alaskan bush. I had no notion that just over a month later, he would be calling to offer me a job. I signed my contract with BSSD on the 21st of March.

From there on out, my path was set. Alaska became a reality.

I have been living in the bush for 5 months now, and life here is beginning to feel natural. I am regularly overwhelmed by the beauty of my surroundings, and fascinated by the people who for so many generations have carved out a living here in this beautiful but unforgiving part of the world.

I have seen and done things in the 5 months that I've been here that just one year ago when I submitted my application I couldn't possibly have imagined. I have: filleted salmon, flown in planes that are no bigger than a large SUV or van, watched and participated in Eskimo dancing, witnessed the sun setting at midnight and rising at noon, gone swimming in the Bering Sea, hiked across the tundra...and above all, managed to survive my first semester as a real teacher without suffering any major meltdowns.

Looking back on my decision of last year, I am convinced I made the right choice. Last January 4th I was submitting an application on a hope and a prayer, my bank account empty, my job prospects nil. This January 4th, I welcomed my students back to school on the first day of a new semester. Talk about a turn of events!

Right now, my life and my heart are full. 2011 has only just begun, but already it's a bright new year.

XOXOjane



Some snapshots from Roman's and my walk around the village today. 28 and sunny - a perfect day for a stroll!

The Airport

The south end of Stebbins with Steven's Hill in the background

Your humble correspondent :)

Roman: Stebbins's most famous poodle

Bluff

Frozen Norton Sound with Stuart Island in the background

Three in the afternoon. It's January in Alaska!